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Cookie West sustainable & ethical approaches

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Cookie West
Boutique & Showroom: 
Sustainable & ethical approaches to
Retail, Customer Services & Display

Cookie West Boutique, Leicester (11/09/2004 - 14/08/2011)

Cookie West Showroom & Party Plan (24/09/2011-31/03/2014)

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Setting up and running Cookie West retail business allowed me the freedom to plan and build in clothing sustainability and ethical practices. Many of these principles and processes developed and grew over time, as I was inspired by those customers who came to the boutique and supported Cookie West, our wonderful team at 29 Loseby Lane and through research of what was going on in the contour industry & the sustainable and ethical initiatives and developments that were happening in the world.

 

Retail buying & range selection:

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I only sourced brands that created well made, quality garments, which gave excellent fit, shape, support and comfort; and were made in materials that would wash and wear well and had the potential to be durable and long lasting. I always aimed to find garments and collections that could fit into a mid market range, for example the average price of a bra retailed between £18-£28, as I wanted the collections to be accessible to as many people as possible. I always selected classic or timeless styles over highly fashionable styles or trends, with the aim of customers loving and wanting to wear their purchase again and again. I often looked to buy ranges that were inspired by a certain era in history and styles and silhouettes of that time. Particularly enduring looks and styles from those eras, that gave good fit and flattering shape. I always chose attractive pieces (ranging from simple, minimalist styles to more ornate), but that were also functional and suitable for everyday wear. I always sought and noted feedback from my customers, which allowed me to develop ranges that were right for my varied customer base. I stocked ranges that catered for a wide range of sizes, initially starting with bras from AA-G, but this developed over the years with larger cup, and smaller & larger back sizes, being added. When products became available (around 2009/2010) I introduced Fair Trade organic cotton and bamboo fabric collections of nightwear and underwear to the store. I built close relationships with many local suppliers and brands, as well as finding some fantastic (but less well known) European brands at industry trade shows. It was important to me to try and support and celebrate the British & European contour fashion industry. Many brands were close to the boutique, in Leicestershire, Nottinghamshire, South Yorkshire & Northamptonshire.

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Services available to customers:

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At Cookie West Boutique and at the Showroom the aim was always to provide a friendly, professional and personal shopping service, finding the right fitting contour garments for each individual and to ensure excellent, personalised customer service on every visit. I discovered there was often demand for an even more bespoke service to achieve a really personalised fit and I began operating a garment alterations and adaptations service. This could range from adapting a piece of underwear to fit comfortably for an individual (who had differences on the left and right sides of their body) or to fit perfectly under the cut of an evening-wear or wedding dress, to amendments to bras and soft lingerie styles for customers who had had mastectomy surgery and wanted to incorporate a breast prosthesis or make a style comfortable against scar tissue. I also found that in bras and swimwear the underband and shoulder elastics could reduce their elasticity over time, which led to me offering a 'repair' service to enable the customer to continue wearing their purchase for longer. All these sewing alterations and repairs were carried out by hand at the boutique. Around 2011 I learnt of the bra recycling scheme by the Against Breast Cancer charity and began to collect in any 'in great condition but no longer loved or worn' bras from customers, to be able to support the scheme.

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'Own label' garment design & manufacture:

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In the final years of Cookie West I developed and produced 'own label' ranges of nightwear and soft lingerie, that were sourced, made and retailed locally. I took a sustainable, upcycling approach to their design and product development. I selected quality and beautiful (and also practical and wearable) lingerie and nightwear fabrics and trims, from a supplier who specialised in 'end of line' materials from established contour fashion brands. I knew these had been through rigorous durability testing in their development, so I was able to develop garments that had the potential for longevity. I then worked with local manufacturers in Sheffield & Nottingham to produce garment styles constructed with high quality stitches and finishes, all to build durability in to the garments.

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Promotion & display of the collections:

 

I used to select some beautiful ranges from some Leicester based manufacturers, but who were unable to supply fashion images to show off their designs. I would work with WeTheConspirators photographer (Fraser) to plan photoshoots of these garments and we would work with a Cookie West customer (or member of the team) as the fashion model.  Taking this approach, I realised that this would be a potentially really exciting and rewarding way to show off Cookie West collections; and so the live Cookie West catwalk show idea was born. I wanted to work with 'real women' to show off the beauty of the female body in all its sizes and shapes and showcase the ranges of underwear, nightwear, swimwear and womenswear. We began organising and running regular charity fundraising Catwalk Fashion Show events, with the Cookie West customers being the 'stars' of these shows. The shows promoted the Cookie West brand and we also collaborated with other local independent retailers and designers, to co-promote Leicester's independent retail offering. The models who took part found the experience really empowering and confidence boosting, and many friendships were formed. The 'Cookie West Girls' didn't just stop at raising money for charities and local causes through these events, we also took on other challenges such as the 'Race for Life' 5km walk, jog or run event each summer and one Christmas we joined together with other individuals and businesses to produce a 'Victorian Christmas in The Lanes', with, Victorian costumes and Festive songs, food, drinks and entertainment.

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To display garments in store I hung all garments on to metal clip hangers. I purchased one set at the start of setting up the business and re-used these throughout the time that Cookie West was trading. The Cookie West boutique and showroom signature packaging was a completely plain, recycled brown paper carrier bag with twisted paper handles, which I believed could be recycled through the paper recycling system in the UK. To identify the bag as a gift or purchase from Cookie West I tied a bow to close the bag/conceal the purchase. This started off being bows made from ribbons and trims left over from developing and making contour garments (and sketchbooks) on my BA Contour Fashion course and in my practice. I then moved to a raffia ribbon that was termed as 'biodegradable'. Cookie West garment labels were printed on to recycled paper or hand written on to kraft paper swing tickets. I was still very aware that packaging (either to the store from suppliers) or to the consumers still needed to be addressed in a far better way, that wasn't adding to the amount of non-degradable waste going to landfill sites or ending up in the environment. If I was to begin trading again, I would research all the current developments in sustainable packaging to work out what would be the best and ecologically safest solutions.

 

Current design thinking and research interests:

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Having run the retail business and through my design education I became very aware that 'safe' (for humans and the environment), sustainable and ethical practices and solutions needed to be researched, tested and implemented across all stages of a garment life cycle - from material production & sourcing, through textile and garment design, processing & manufacturing, shipping/delivery (and packaging) of the garments to retail outlets, retail environments (online or 'bricks & mortar' stores), online delivery packaging or retailer bags , laundering, use and wear by the consumer and finally to what happens to a garment when a person has finished wearing it. I view that a holistic and connected way of thinking and tacking issues needed to be taken, looking at all the elements and processes as being part of one connected system. Through research and experimentation I would like to explore how could a 'safe' bio-circular design, manufacturing, retail, use and disposal/recycling cycle be researched, developed and implemented? Could elements (or all) of this cycle not only be 'safe' but also regenerative?

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